October 8, 2008 Newsletter

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If you recall in a past issue of this newsletter we talked about the difference between a "summer" squash and a 'winter" squash.  A common mistake folks make is to plant the winter squash too late thinking that it grows in the winter.  This will produce no crops in fact the plant will die with the first frost. 



The reason it gets its name is due to its great storage capabilities.  The summer squash is picked young and immature while the winter version is picked mature with the seeds fully formed and the skin is hard.  The winter squashes actually get "riper" (the starch turns to sugars) with age!  If an un-nicked squash is stored in a cool, dark place it can last up to 6 months!

It is generally believed that all squash originated in Mesoamerica, the butternut and related species of squash originate from around Mexico - separate from pumpkins or "winter squash", which originate in South America. "The oldest evidence, pumpkin-related seeds dating between 7000 and 5500 B.C., were found in Mexico." The kabocha (known as the Japanese pumpkin), however, was introduced to Japan by Portuguese sailors in 1541, which brought it with them from Cambodia.

Pumpkins are the most well known of the winter squashes in the US thanks in most part to Halloween.  While all pumpkins are edible, the ones grown specifically for jack-o-lanterns can be tasteless and/or dry. 

Squashes have male and female flowers so bees are very important in pollinating them.  There is even a native squash bee, Peponapis pruinosa, though its population has been on the decline.  If you grow squashes next time look at the base of the flowers; if it has a bulb (as in the photo above) on it that's the ovary and that is the flower that if pollinated will grow the fruit.  If it just has a stem then this is the male and can be picked to stuff and eat.

Did you know that the biggest "pumpkin" weighed in at 1,689 pounds?!?  The huge ones are actually a cross between hubbard squashes and kabochas, closely related to what we know as the pumpkin.

Some of the other varieties of winter squash that you might enjoy in your box are: butternut, spaghetti, turban, buttercup, delicata, and acorn.

Squashes are super versatile.  Using the flesh you can bake, steam, boil, sauté.  You can eat the flowers, steam the leaves and toast the seeds.

The nutritional value of the flesh is high. " Winter squash is a good source of complex carbohydrates such as starch, and also fiber. It is also a source of niacin, potassium, iron and beta-carotene.

     The seeds, also known as pepitas, have many health benefits as well as the flesh, "some of which include a good source of protein, zinc and other vitamins, and are even said to lower cholesterol.  One gram of pumpkin seed protein contains as much tryptophan as a full glass of milk" that which can be helpful with anxiety disorders.

   Winter squash can be used for sweet dishes as well as savory.  Some of these recipes call for canned puree, but just replace it with the recipe for squash puree.  The puree can be frozen for use another day.  If you have kids, see the cookbook Deceptively Delicious by Jessica Seinfeld for recipes than sneak this healthy ingredient into foods they'll love.  Also the different squashes are fairly inter-changeable in recipes, so don't be afraid to try butternut instead of pumpkin in pies.

 

Squash Puree
3 squash, halved, the seeds and strings discarded
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Arrange the squash, inverted, in one layer in a buttered baking dish. Bake the squash, covered with foil, in the middle of a preheated 375°F. oven for 1 hour and let it cool until it can be handled. Scoop out the squash pulp, discarding the skin, and in a food processor purée it with the butter. Transfer the purée to a saucepan and simmer it, stirring occasionally, until the excess liquid is evaporated. The purée may be made 1 day in advance and kept covered and chilled.  

 

Black Bean Pumpkin Soup
Three 15 1/2 ounce cans black beans (about 4 1/2 cups), rinsed and drained
1 cup drained canned tomatoes, chopped
1 1/4 cups chopped onion
1/2 cup minced shallot
4 garlic cloves minced
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter
4 cups beef broth
a 16-ounce can pumpkin puree (about 1 1/2 cups)
1/2 cup dry Sherry
1/2 pound cooked ham, cut into 1/8-inch dice
3 to 4 tablespoons Sherry vinegar

Garnish: sour cream and coarsely chopped toasted pumpkin seeds

In a food processor coarsely puree beans and tomatoes.  In a 6-quart heavy kettle cook onion, shallot, garlic, cumin, salt, and pepper in butter over moderate heat, stirring, until onion is softened and beginning to brown. Stir in bean puree. Stir in broth, pumpkin, & Sherry until combined & simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, 25 minutes, or until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.  Just before serving, add ham and vinegar and simmer soup, stirring, until heated through. Season soup w/ salt and pepper.  Serve soup w/ sour cream & toasted pumpkin seeds.

 

Pumpkin Soup with Apple Schnitz "Croutons"

4 pounds pumpkin or other winter squash such as butternut or
Hubbard, halved and strings and seeds discarded
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 large carrots, chopped
4 celery ribs, chopped
2 large onions, chopped
1 leek (white and pale green part only), halved lengthwise, washed
well, and chopped
12 cups chicken broth or water
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 cup pure maple syrup
1 cup heavy cream
Preheat oven to 350°F. In a shallow baking pan arrange squash, cut sides up, and bake 45 minutes, or until soft. Spoon out pulp (there should be 6 to 8 cups) and purée in a food processor.  In a large heavy kettle heat butter over moderate heat until foam subsides and cook remaining vegetables, stirring occasionally, until they begin to soften, 10 to 12 minutes. Add broth or water, squash purée, cinnamon, and nutmeg and simmer, covered 40 minutes. Stir in syrup and cream and simmer, uncovered, 5 minutes. Season soup with salt and pepper. Cool soup slightly and in food processor/blender purée in sm batches until smooth, transferring to large bowl. Return soup to kettle & reheat if necessary. Serve soup garnished w/ croutons.
Garnish: apple Schnitz "croutons":
1 tart apple such as Granny Smith
1/4 cup firmly packed light brown sugar                    

Preheat oven to 300°F.  Peel and core apple and halve lengthwise. In a food processor fitted with 2-millimeter slicing disk or with a mandoline or other hand-held slicing device cut apple into paper-thin slices. On a large non-stick baking sheet or a large baking sheet lined with parchment paper spread slices in one layer and sprinkle evenly with brown sugar. Bake slices in middle of oven 20 minutes, or until crisp and golden, and transfer immediately to racks to cool. Makes about 12 "croutons."

 

Pasta with Butternut Squash and Sage

1 medium onion, chopped                             2 tablespoons olive oil
1-lb butternut squash, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
3/4 cup water                                             1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage
1 lb gemelli or penne rigate pasta                   2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 cup freshly grated parmesan plus additional for sprinkling
2 tablespoons unsalted butter (optional)

For a savory addition, toss a little sautéed pancetta or bacon into this pasta.
Cook onion in oil in a large nonstick skillet over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until golden. Finely chop squash pieces in a food processor and add to onion with water and salt to taste. Simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, 15 minutes, or until squash is tender. Add sage and simmer 1 minute more. Cook pasta in a 6-quart pot of boiling salted water until al dente. Reserve 1 cup cooking liquid in a cup and drain pasta. Return pasta to pot and add squash mixture, parsley, 1 cup parmesan, butter, and plenty of freshly ground black pepper, stirring until butter is melted. Season with salt and add some of reserved pasta cooking liquid to moisten if necessary.  Serve sprinkled with additional parmesan.

Honey-Glazed Butternut Squash

1/4 cup olive oil
2 medium butternut squash, peeled, cut into 3/4-inch cubes (about 6 cups)
1/4 cup honey

Heat oil in heavy large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add squash; cover and cook until squash is just tender and beginning to color, stirring occasionally, about 12 minutes. Add honey; toss until squash is glazed. Season with salt and pepper.

Apple-Filled Acorn Squash Rings with Curry Butter

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter
1 large onion, chopped
1 1/2 tablespoons curry powder
2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, diced (about 2 1/3 cups)
2/3 cup apple juice
1/2 cup dried currants
8 1-inch-thick unpeeled acorn squash rings (from 2 medium), seeded
Melt 1 tablespoon butter in heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until tender, about 12 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon curry powder; stir 1 minute. Add apples, apple juice, and currants. Sauté until liquid evaporates, about 6 min. Season filling to taste with salt and pepper. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)  Preheat oven to 350°F. Melt 5 tablespoons butter in small skillet over medium heat. Add 1/2 tablespoon curry powder; stir until fragrant, about 1 min. Transfer curry butter to bowl. Brush 2 large rimmed baking sheets with some curry butter. Arrange squash in single layer on sheets. Sprinkle with salt & pepper. Scoop filling into center of rings. Drizzle remaining curry butter over squash & filling (mostly on squash). Cover with foil. Bake squash rings until squash is tender when pierced with skewer, about 40 min. Using spatula, transfer squash rings w/ filling to plates.

Squash Custard Pie
3/4 cup of squash purée
2 large eggs, separated
Scant 3/4 cup of vanilla sugar made with light brown sugar
Pinch of fine sea salt
1 1/3 cup whole milk
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
One pre-baked 10-inch tart pastry
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In a medium-sized bowl whisk together the squash and the egg yolks until combined. Whisk in the sugar and the salt and the milk, then whisk in the flour until smooth. In another medium-size bowl, lightly whisk the egg whites to the soft peak stage. Whisk the egg whites lightly into the squash mixture, then pour it into the pre-baked pie shell. Sprinkle the cinnamon over the top and bake in the bottom third of the oven for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat of the oven to 350°F and continue baking until the pie is nearly set but still moves slightly, 25 to 30 minutes. Let it cool to room temperature before serving.

Winter Squash with Browned Butter and Rosemary
1 2-pound butternut squash,peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
Steam squash until almost tender when pierced with fork, about 5 minutes. Cool squash slightly. Melt butter in large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Continue to cook until butter is golden brown and aromatic, about 2 minutes. Add squash and rosemary and toss until squash is tender, heated through and coated with browned butter, about 3 minutes. Season generously with salt and pepper.

Southwestern Pumpkin Burgers

6 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 medium onion, chopped
1/2 cup finely chopped red or green bell pepper
1/2 cup fresh or frozen corn
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Fresh Tomato Salsa, optional (recipe follows)
1/2 cup canned unseasoned pumpkin puree
1/2 cup shredded Monterey Jack or Cheddar cheese
1/2 cup toasted wheat germ
1/2 cup fine dry breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper to taste
6 8-inch flour tortillas (soft-taco size)
2 cups shredded lettuce

Heat 2 teaspoons oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring often, until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in bell pepper, corn, garlic, chili powder and cumin; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to a large bowl; let cool to room temperature, about 10 minutes.  Meanwhile, prepare Fresh Tomato Salsa, if using. Add pumpkin, cheese, wheat germ, breadcrumbs, parsley, salt and pepper to the onion mixture; mix well. With dampened hands, form the vegetable mixture into six 1/2-inch-thick patties, using about 1/2 cup for each.  Preheat oven to 325°F. Stack tortillas and wrap in aluminum foil. Place in the oven for about 15 minutes to heat through. (Alternatively, stack tortillas between two damp paper towels; microwave on high for 30 to 60 seconds, or until heated through.) Using 2 teaspoons oil per batch, cook 2 to 4 patties at a time in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat until browned and heated through, about 4 minutes per side. Adjust heat as necessary for even browning. Wrap the patties in tortillas and serve immediately, garnished with lettuce & Fresh Tomato Salsa, if desired.

MAKE AHEAD TIP: Prepare through Step 3. Wrap patties individually & refrigerate for up to 2 days or freeze for up to 3 months. Thaw in refrigerator before cooking.

 

Winter Squash & Chicken Tzimmes

9 cups cubed peeled winter squash (1-inch cubes; see Tip)
1 cup small pitted prunes
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 medium shallots, thinly sliced and separated into rings
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon salt, divided
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
8 skinless, bone-in chicken thighs (about 3 ½ pounds), trimmed
1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth or vegetable broth
1 teaspoon freshly grated orange zest
¼ cup orange juice

Preheat oven to 350°F. Place squash, prunes, garlic, shallots, cinnamon, oregano, thyme, 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper in a large bowl and mix well. Transfer to a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Sprinkle chicken with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and place on top of the vegetables. Mix broth, orange zest and juice in a small bowl and pour over the chicken. Cover the baking dish with foil.  Bake for 40 minutes. Uncover and continue baking until the vegetables are tender and the chicken is cooked through, basting often, about 1 hour more.

 

Red Onion and Almond-Stuffed Winter Squash

4 small winter squashes              1 tablespoon butter
1 large red onion, chopped
¼ cup finely chopped toasted almonds
½ teaspoon grated fresh ginger or ¼ teaspoon ground ginger
Salt and freshly-ground black pepper to taste

1. If using an oven, preheat to 375.

2. Cut the squashes in half lengthwise. Place
halves in a baking dish, cut side up, with about ½ inch of water, and cover
with foil. Bake until easily pierced with a knife but still holding their
shape, 30 to 40 minutes, depending on size and type of squash used. Or
microwave, using as a rule of thumb 4 to 7 minutes for each squash. Test
occasionally to be sure they don't get overcooked.  When the squashes are cool enough to handle, scoop out and
discard the seeds. Scoop out the pulp and transfer to a mixing bowl, leaving a
sturdy shell of about ¼ inch think all around. 
Heat the margarine or butter in a medium skillet. Add onion and sauté
over medium heat until golden. Add the almond and continue to sauté until they
give off a toasty aroma.  Combine the
onion mixture with the squash pulp. Add ginger, season with salt and pepper,
and stir together. Stuff back in to the squash shells. Reheat in the microwave
or oven, just until heated through, and serve.


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